Defiant Imagination

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Urbanism and architecture

Colombia is rising

Medellín’s cable car system. Credits: Flickr user Marcelo Druck

When you see three positive articles about Colombia in one week, it’s a sign. And the fact that two of them were published in magazines that cater to businesspeople shows it’s time for investors to look in the direction of this South American country.

Medellín seems to be the city du jour with much publicity about its metrocable and ambitious architecture projects. Colombia’s second city, with 3.5 million inhabitants, seems to be rising from its ashes thanks in part to an aggressive security program meant to kick the drug gangs out. This New York Times article has fallen into the “urban planning will save us all” rhetoric (and you know what I think of it.)

What sets Medellín apart is the particular strength of its culture of urbanism, which acts now almost like a civic calling card. The city’s new mayor, Aníbal Gaviria, spent an hour describing to me his dreams for burying a congested highway that runs through the middle of town, building an electric tram along the hillsides to stem the sprawl of the slums, adding a green belt of public buildings along the tram, rehabilitating the Medellín River and densifying the city center — smart, public-spirited, improvements. It’s as if, in this country whose relatively robust economy has underwritten many forward-thinking projects, every mayor here has to have enormous architectural and infrastructural plans, or risk coming across as small-minded or an outsider.

En Route’s June Edition concentrates on specific projects that are slowly building the city’s reputation:  the Parque de los Deseos and Parque de los Pies Descalzos urban plazas, the Orquideorama at the Botanical Garden, the Parque Explora science centre, the Unidad Deportiva Atanasio Girardot sports complex, and the impressive Parque Biblioteca España library.

Felipe Mesa, the principal of Plan:b Arquitectos, had a hand in both the Orquideorama and the sports complex. I walk to his office in leafy El Poblado, an upscale neighbourhood in the city’s south end that’s also home to my hotel and – as I learn when trying to sleep in one morning – Guacamaya parrots and myriad other birds making a ruckus at sunrise. “Up to about five years ago, nobody came to Medellín. No tourists, no academics and no foreign tradespeople, so we had no choice but to learn how to do everything ourselves,” he says, explaining why the city now has so many high-calibre designers.

The title of this Monocle article (subscribers only) leaves no place to ambiguity. “Born Again” looks at the evolving economy of Colombia, noting that “over the last eight years, foreign direct investment has risen almost tenfold to €10bn.” The country’s steady economic growth and stable political climate will certainly make that number rise even more in the future. Colombia has also been putting a heavy emphasis on foreign relations and diplomacy, sending a clear message that it intends to become a regional power.

Few mentions are made in these reports about the FARC problem… The guerilla seems to have lost enough power to have trade partners and investors not worry anymore about having to conduct risky business.

June 28 update: This Pacific Standard article will help you understand the influence of architecture, planning and security policy on Medellín over the past 10 years or so.

Also, I’ll be going to Bogotá in August to report on this topic. Any other story ideas are more than welcome.

Curitiba: the end of a myth?

During my trip in Brazil I stopped for a few days in Curitiba, a city located in the South of the country. Curitiba has been praised for its exemplary urban planning for a good 20 years, and I wanted to see it for myself. I had been to Portland, Oregon with the same kind of curiosity, and there I realized that “urban planning fame” happens mainly because of concepts and theories.

Indeed my first impression of Curitiba was of a grey, spread-out city, better appreciated with a car. People there don’t fit Brazilian stereotypes (which are mainly built around Rio culture) and keep to themselves. Like in all major Brazilian cities they worry about crime, and everybody has a story of knowing someone who got mugged, or worse. Curitiba is not really walkable, nor does it encourage community building. And if you care to venture outside city limits, you encounter poverty and crime.

Here’s my article about Curitiba in The Atlantic Cities, published earlier this week.

Top photo credit: Mathieu Struck/Flickr

Ruin porn: what’s beneath our fascination for Detroit’s decay

This morning I posted a link to this editorial from The Architect’s Newspaper, which presents a positive view of ruin porn (or Detroitism,) a recent tendency to photograph the ruins of Detroit’s and marvel at their sombre beauty (see examples here, here and here). This article got me thinking: why are we fascinated with signs of urban decay? Why has the plight of Detroit become the object of so much attention? The ruins of Detroit symbolize much more than than the end of the industrial age. They remind us that even the greatest cities eventually die, that no matter how grand humanity can be, it cannot escape a tragic fate. Detroit’s photographs are morbidly beautiful, and we can’t stop watching.

But ruin porn is just part of a general tendency to underline how much Detroit has come to suck. Yes, Detroit sucks, and we revel in remembering and detailing how much it sucks as often as we can. Back when I was living in Seattle, the Stranger (one of the city’s alternative weeklies) published a 3000-word feature titled “Things I Remember About Detroit.” Apparently all there was to remember was violence, prostitution, drug deals, dirt and ruins. I read all 3000 words with vicious pleasure. I also viewed countless photo essays about Detroit’s abandoned buildings, and I even started sharing on this blog my own opinion about what Detroit needs in order to survive.

When I stumbled upon this article this morning I decided to make a quick search about what is said about ruin porn online, and it turns out a lot of good stuff has been written, pro and against the trend. But eventually, I found a feature piece from Vice magazine dating two years back, which eventually gave me an entirely different perspective on the issue.

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The new ghost town is… brand new.

Ghost towns… We used to think about them as icons of the Wild West, traces of an ancient civilization (Petra) or as the unfortunate consequences of an accident (Prypiat, abandonned after the Chernobyl catastrophe.)

Financial speculation has since created another kind of ghost town, one created by the laws of modern banking and the rules of real estate. In the U.S., these towns are the foreclosed neighbourhoods of California or Florida, bought for a fortune and sold for nothing.

I’ve recently learned that the U.S. were not the only country dealing with a real estate bubble, far from it. Spain has been plagued with a problem of unfinished developments and unsold housing lots, well documented in these articles from the New York Times and the Guardian. In the meantime, its youth can’t afford to buy property, unless they sign 50-year mortgages.

What surprised me the most was the situation in China, whose housing bubble is taking gigantic proportions. The New South China Mall, the biggest mall in the world, has been sitting empty for years. Nearby, towns built for millions of people have a 25% occupancy rate, while residents in Beijing can’t afford to buy decent property.

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Can young creatives save Detroit?

This article published in the New York Times on July 1st comes as rather good news for Detroit. It’s actually the first positive piece of news I’ve come across about this city in months — maybe years.

It seems the creative type has elected Detroit as its newest boom town. According to the article, “downtown Detroit experienced a 59 percent increase in the number of college-educated residents under the age of 35, nearly 30 percent more than two-thirds of the nation’s 51 largest cities.” Artists, designers, entrepreneurs and other types of young professionals have been taking advantage of low real estate prices and the growing number of career opportunities.

This phenomenon transpires in the number of trendy coffee shops and restaurants opening every year, renovated buildings as well as community initiatives being launched. I was particularly impressed by the Detroit Creative Corridor Center, an entrepreneurship hub providing services to new creative businesses.

There seems to be a certain parallel with what New Orleans has been experiencing since Katrina: a surge in creative initiatives and social entrepreneurship. Both cities still have a long way to go, but it seems that in such places that have been badly shaken by deep crisis, the feeling of community lies at the basis of the reconstruction effort. I hope we’ve only seen the beginning of what will be an amazing journey toward a renewed prosperity.

Photo credits: Ian Freimuth, some rights reserved.

The age of the global city

There’s a very interesting article in the September/October issue of Foreign Policy in which International Relations expert Parag Khanna discusses the evolution of our world toward an age of the city.

Khanna points out that cities have always been acting as focus points for civilizations (think Venice or Changdu.) However we’ve never lived in an age where mega-cities acting as centres of power are emerging in all areas of the world. In fact, Khanna argues that the future will not be about nation-states but about global cities.

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Doug Saunders: Arrival City

Another investigation into the world of slums has been published. Doug Saunders, from the Globe and Mail, is the author of Arrival City, in which he describes his experience in these vast and poor urban areas populated with thousands of people who often have relocated from the countryside. Although I haven’t had the chance to read it, I have gone through an excerpt published on Sep. 25 in the newspaper, accompanied by an article summing up his findings.

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You are here

youarehere

The Pratt Manhattan Gallery is having a exhibition showcasing the work of various artists inspired by the psychogeography of New York City. You are here features an anxiety map, a loneliness map, a happiness map and more. The exhibition is running until November 6. Make sure to visit if you ever find yourself in NYC!

More info here.

Jane Jacobs on slums

Conventional approaches to slums and slum dwellers are thoroughly paternalistic. The trouble with paternalists is that they want to make impossibly profound changes, and they choose impossibly superficial means for doing so. To overcome slums, we must regard slum dwellers as people capable of understanding and acting upon their own self-interests, which they certainly are. We need to discern, respect and build upon the forces for regeneration that exist in slums themselves, and that demonstrably work in real cities. This is far from trying to patronize people into a better life, and it is far from what is done today.

Jane Jacobs, The Death and Life of Great American Cities.

Portland, Vancouver: perfect urban planning, perfect cities?

I couldn’t help but comment about this article published on www.newgeography.com about Portland’s and Vancouver’s urban planning model, in which its author wonders if these models could be applied to Australian cities. These comments might upset some of you, but I choose to speak honestly.

There seems to be somewhat of a discrepancy between the way certain cities portray themselves to the outside world and the reality. Vancouver is often praised for its highway-free boundaries and high-density downtown core. I found these areas (downtown, Yaletown and the West End) to be mostly spiritless and, dare I say it, soulless. Some vast areas of Yaletown and the West End are strictly residential (we’re talking about huge condominium towers here) and deeply lack these small stores that usually give life to neighbourhoods. In the West End, I walked by some condo buildings whose first floor was non existent – the structure relied on cement pillars, suppressing all hopes of creating a community feeling. What would Jane Jacobs think about this?

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